In Gulu there is a new hotel (so new it’s not completed yet but it is open) called Churchill Court. Go past the Acholi Inn on your left to the T junction and turn right and it is about 100 metres on the left. Very welcoming and food not bad for Gulu but the mattresses on the beds are very, very firm. It’s a bit like serving a stint on a Klingon Bird of Prey. Bomah hotel might still have the edge. Gulu is very busy with lots of people and nothing like the small town of the late 60s, early 70s. The climate has clearly changed a lot because the market is now groaning with fruit and veg unlike the old days when Buzungu women queued outside Amlani’s on a Thursday morning for the weekly delivery of a few shrivelled carrots and potatoes. There is also a massive number of young NGO people who seem to be having a great time – and why not? – in addition to the work they are doing. Very different from seven or eight years ago when we saw one muzungu in Gulu. Lots of new hotels etc but no real jump in quality. Mike Godfrey