Bwindi updates

We arrived at Ruhiza Page 276 and the lovely Trekkers Tavern which was as good if not better than last time. A superb place, owned by Hassan Mutebe of AccessUganda. Now the grounds have matured it is my first choice place to stay. The only downer was the bumpy approach road but Moses and Julius’ hospitality more than matched this. Very handy for Ruhiza area and if UWA can get their act together over Entry Fees, a longer stay would be worthwhile.

There is a newish upmarket Lodge nearby now, plus one or two enterprising locals opening up modest places.

Birding is of course spectacular and we went down to Mbwindi Swamp to pay our respects to the Green Broadbills (4).

Then we moved on down to Buhoma, the road having deteriorated badly or memory is failing.

Page 269 Lots of new beds being provided here. Too many in fact. Hopefully the competition will control some of the excessive pricing in evidence. GFC at $800 per night has to take the biscuit.

We again used Gorilla Resort. as this is one of our favourites. The older “Cottages” felt damp and lacked privacy. However the Tents on their platforms are excellent. There was refurbishment work going on during our visit and it is nice to see the level of care being exercised. Fees are a bit Top side at $500 though. Where do they get these prices from? We were the only guests on two of the three nights of our visit. Charge $100 less and fill the place would be my management plan.

It should be noted that several roads to/from Bwindi Buhoma and “the neck” are now in dreadful condition once more. We actually found it quicker when coming back to Lake Mburo from Buhoma to route via Ishasha and Katanguru/Kazinga as this road is now quite good. Ishasha to the tar in less than two hours.

Fred Hodgson


One thought on “Bwindi updates

  1. Roger Theobald says:

    We would agree that the Trekkers’ Tavern is a great place to stay. In July 2010, we spent a couple of night here being well looked after by Moses and his team and wondering how Julius managed to produce such lovely food in his rather basic kitchen. Hassan was with us and indicated that he had plans to improve the dining area and kitchens.
    The area was also splendid for birding – with Hassan Mutebi and Jonny Kamugish as our guides, we were treated to a huge array of birds, many of them endemic to the area. It was a real treat. We enjoyed the walk to Mbwindi Swamp, where we saw several rarities, but not, sadly, the African Green Broadbill – we had to `make do’ with Grauer’s Rush Warbler, African Broadbill and Black-billed Turaco, for example.
    We also did our Mountain Gorilla trek from here, excellently led by Obed. After four hours trekking we found seven of the Bitakura group, which included a silverback, young males and females with young. They kept walking – and so did we! A mention and huge thanks must be passed on to our porters, Garshon and Ema, without whom this trek would not have been possible. They were fantastic. It may be worth noting that this is as good an area for gorilla watching as Buhoma.
    The road from Ruhija to Buhoma is appalling. The 46 kilometres took us over two hours, but it was an experience. We also stayed at Gorilla resort, which we found comfortable in the tents, although some commented less favourably on the older accommodation. The food was satisfactory and the service attentive, but this was probably the least successful of the places we stayed. Building work was still evident, but not much seemed to have been happening.
    Our walks in the forest were excellent both for birding and for monkey-spotting – we also had an unexpected encouter with a young gorilla some twenty metres from the main track, which enthralled everyone. The village of Buhoma was the most `touristy’ place we came across, with several craft shops, etc, but this did not detract. Overall, Bwindi was quite magnificent and awe-inspiring and we feel privileged in being able to visit this forest.

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