Overland to Musoma (Tanzania) via Kenya

Crossed Tororo to Musoma via Kenya in one day (11 hours, set off 7.30 am, 457 km—1hr to pass through the border).

Took northern border so as to pass by Kakamega forest. The Webuye- Kakamega-Kisumu road is the worst ‘paved’ road I have driven on, rutted with potholes all the way in serious condition. We wanted to see the forest, which was spectacular but not a very long stretch on that road and so not really worth the detour. Kisumu was crowded and dusty and though we tried to find somewhere to have lunch we found it was wasting time so drove on. Road south was reasonable.

Border (4pm) on Kenyan side was rather miserable and had a rundown,  pathetic appearance in contrast with the more vibrant noisy and friendly Tanzanian side.

Having parked by the border gate and spent my last 150Ksh on bottled water an official came up to demand local tax of —150Ksh. He would not take Ugandan shillings and so got twice the money on TZ shillings. Similarly there was a council tax on TZ side of a small amount. This was the only border we crossed where we had to pay this tax.

Spectacular road to Musoma (arrived 6.30pm) in the evening sun as we curved through the Mara countryside with occasional settlement, almost no traffic and perfect surface. One of our favourite drives.

Rupert Gude


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